Trends for men
for the spring/summer 2023 season
‘A trend is a change in values, dreams, fears and desires you can see in society from a human perspective’ - wrote Els Dragt in her book 'How to research trends’. The year 2023 will surely be a year of bold discussions regarding to the future. We observe the dynamic development of technology, artificial intelligence and the political situation in the world, envisaging dystopian and utopian ideas. We try to name the unknown, we tend to return to what we know was safe and we look for something completely new hoping that it will bring the desired change for the better. Social media focused on the visual transmission of information by design, has become a new agora, an endless source of inspiration, and a machine controlled by clicks and defined by the ups and downs of trends. Every day, millions of users share what is important to them and document their lives and fashion choices. How not to get caught up in assessing the possibilities? Discover trends straight from the catwalks for the SS23 season and get inspired to give a fresh boost to your wardrobe.
Goth - taming the darkness
Black is back. The goth trend is back in the mainstream as a counterbalance to the bright and colourful 'dopamine dressing'. The goth subculture was born in the 1980s in post-punk music clubs in the UK as an expression of opposition to the mainstream and socially imposed norms. Just like any other subculture, it maintained its own political ethos and aesthetic - its members were enjoying androgynous silhouettes and DIY projects and deliberately distressed clothes.
High fashion instantly absorbs everything which seems to be niche and alternative. Inspired by a rebellious social group, this style appeared on fashion shows this season, showcasing theatrical and glamorous features. There were gauzy Saint Laurent capes and vintage biker jackets, Victorian lace and latex and leather accents. This gloomy aura has been evident in sporty Rick Owens' designs as well as Alexander McQueen's skulls-laden collections for years. Find your inspiration among habitues of rave parties which grow in popularity.
Blazers tailored to our times
It seems that everything has already been said about the blazers. Recently, this piece lost some of its ‘formalness’, though - it could be seen on the streets, worn with jeans and sneakers. This season, the blazer returned to the catwalks as the main character and stole the show more than once. Designers compete against one another in creating a unique and head-turning staple.
Exaggerated, masculine shoulders were presented by Saint Laurent while hyperbolically emphasized waists emerged in the collections of Dries Van Noten and Gucci. The VTMNTS show was full of ultra-cropped silhouettes. Blazers at the shows for the SS23 season captivated the audience with graphic prints and vivid colours (Dolce & Gabbana and Moschino), glistened with applications (Off-White) and stunned with cutouts and asymmetrical cuts (Alexander McQueen). Versace like no other brand has accustomed us to the fact that more is... more - it presented outfits in which blazers are stacked on top of each other.
No gender - be yourself
Trousers have been exclusively garments for men for ages. The feminist movement tried to break this unwritten rule in the 19th century. Originally, women wearing pants were mocked and pointed at, but they were a crucial phenomenon for the emancipation movement. Trousers - more comfortable and functional than long skirts, favoured active leisure time, and most of all - gave women a choice. This season, fashion gives men a choice and delivers items and cuts that were previously perceived as commonly feminine. We have seen skin-revealing shorts by VTMNTS, corset tops at Balenciaga shows, and skirts at Moschino and Jil Sander.
Floral motifs bloomed on the Etro catwalk, Dolce & Gabbana delighted with lace, and there were also handbags and jewellery. Generation Z, which plays a huge part in creating current trends, more and more often undermines the binary gender division and socially accepted rules and norms, which can be seen in their TikTok outfits. They fearlessly play with contrasts, blending what is feminine and masculine. Breaking the unwritten rules of menswear can be a symbolic removal of armour that will allow everyone to express their personality without let or hindrance. Will the no-gender trend, very popular on the catwalks lately and blurring the lines between women's and men's fashion, bring us another revolution?
Future prep - not only for top students
When the world becomes too chaotic and unpredictable, people are more likely to go back to classics and proven solutions. The preppy style originated in private preparatory schools and Ivy League universities. Until the 1980s, it was primarily a symbol of privilege and social status. The fashion world keeps reinventing this style, and each time it distances itself even further from the original, rigid worldview associated with the concept and the even more rigid rules of the school uniform, making it much more inclusive. The 'neo-prep' or 'future prep' is inspired by the fashion of prestigious sports like tennis, rugby, sailing or polo, and combines it with styles taken from youth subcultures.
Baseball jackets, rugby T-shirts with collars, chinos, cable knit sweaters draped over the shoulders or wool vests and cardigans have been presented at the shows of Kenzo, Dries Van Noten or Wales Bonner, as well as in the collections of the streetwear brand Rhude. The classic elements are updated with looser fits, explosions of vivid colours and bold patterns, to the delight of fashion lovers around the world.
Blokecore - being a sports fan is trendy
Not so long ago, wearing sports clothes was considered a fashion faux pas, something allowed only at home or at the gym – today, sportswear has completely redefined its meaning. During the pandemic, we fell in love with sweatpants, and the enforced lifestyle change made us prioritize comfort in our daily routine. It’s not surprising that the fascination with and exploration of the possibilities of sportswear continues to grow and find new ways of expression. Fashion has taken one of the world's most popular sports – football – under the microscope. The world’s designers like Balenciaga and Gucci are partnering with popular sportswear brands or creating capsule collections signed with the names of top football players – like Dsquared2’s collaboration with Zlatan Ibrahimović.
Aware of the fact that nostalgia is often the driving force behind trends, Wales Bonner, an award-winning designer, reached into club archives of the 1970s. It was then that the first British subculture of 'the casuals' was born, centred around supporting their favourite teams. Their 'casual uniform' – T-shirts with the name of their favourite player, simple jeans and classic sneaker models are the inspiration for the trendsetters of today who unite under the #blokecore. Don't miss new arrivals from one of football fans’ favourite brands – Stone Island.
Underwear takes the lead role
This is not the first time that fashion dares to break the rules and bring to the surface what was previously unnoticed or even hidden. Underwear is becoming the leading character in the looks of trendsetters around the world. And this time it’s not only for supermodels. Although it naturally brings to mind women's fashion, it was an item of men's clothing – the codpiece, a type of flap or pouch attached to the front of trousers in the 15th century, that was the first recorded example of underwear worn in the open.
In the 1950s, the white T-shirt worn by Marlon Brando or James Dean suddenly became a symbol of youth rebellion, a statement of opinion, while proving that making the typically masculine item of clothing visible changed its clear gender associations. This season, designers also drew inspiration from women's fashion – the catwalks of Acne Studios and Dolce & Gabbana are full of lace, and transparent garments dominated the Etro collection together with extremely short shorts. Silk pyjama sets and bathrobes also had their moment – from animal prints and classic baroque motifs by Versace, to elegant designs in classic black from Saint Laurent. Neon boxer shorts sticking out from underneath the clothes caught everyone’s eye at the Givenchy show.
The wild west in your closet
Yeehaw! Fashion is all about having fun. The modern cowboys from the Casablanca show are not afraid of colours and psychedelic patterns. On his runway, Dries Van Noten paired classic cowboy boots with blazers and shorts, achieving a unique, sporty style. Timeless denim and suede rule the trend, but it's the accessories and details that come to the fore – stunning embroideries, tassels, leather belts with big buckles, and above all: cowboy hats.
Check out the latest designs with the iconic matchstick from Nick Fouquet. Find inspiration in the style of famous characters from westerns. Look out for Gucci’s designs with the emblematic horsebit and spice up your look with a scarf from Moschino or Givenchy. Get lassoed by one of this season's hottest trends!